Chihshang, Taitung (5) Rice Flavor of Hakka Village Oil Caulifower Field
Written and photographed / Hsieh Chung Li “Chihshang mealbox” is a household name that needs no introduction. Chihshang is geographically located in between Hualien and Taitung. In winter, the cauliflower fields, stretching from Fuli in the north to Kwanshan in the south, looks like a seamless piece of golden silk. A wondrous sight to behold for many visitors. Hakka migrated to Chihshang mostly from Taoyuang, Hsinchu, and Miaoli after 1902’s. The Japanese established “Taitung Hakka Exploration Association” and allowed Taiwanese to begin exploring the east. In view of the increasing pressure from population growth and land scarcity, Hakka tribe first entered the eastern coast for settlement. And when Hualien—Taitung railway began to operate in 1926, Fukienese started to come in, mostly working in the business, thus resulting in a good mix of Hakka and Fukienese. The rest of the population is made up of aboriginal minority as Ahmei, mainlander veteran, and population of Pingpu ethnicity who moved in from Hengchun Peninsula from lot earlier days. Situated between the Central and the coastal ranges, Chihshang is situated at the south of the Hualien-Taitung Vertical Valley and shares common borders in the north with Long Chuen Creek, Nan Chau Creek, Da Po Pond, and Da Po Creek which converge to Hsiao Ku Run Creek heading north. At its southern edge is Shin Wu Lu Creek (later part of which is Pei Nan Big Creek) which originates from the main ridge of Kwanshan of the Southern Horizontal Ridge. As being converged into Wan An Creed, Fu Sing Creek, and Ni Shuwei Creek tributaries, they have formed the primary rivers and streams running through the entire village. All of these rivers and streams have later developed fan-like alluvial plain for Hsin Wu Lu Creek, Long Chuen, Da Po Creek, Chin Yuan Creek, Wan An Creek, and Fu Sing Creek, namely the so-called “Chihshang Plain.” The plain looks extraordinarily open wide in between of the two ridges, and it is exactly this spot of area that produce the excellent and well-known rice crop. Another prominent landmark of Chihshang is the Da Po Pond, which is a fault lake formed from rainfall, proximal creek water, and spring water. Aborigines settled in the neighborhood since time immemorial. The place was thus named as “New Settlement Garden” in Ching Dynasty, and renamed as Chihshang during Japanese occupation. The vast lake is teeming with marine life and birds. However, subsequent mindless development led to the reduction of the water body, and permanently damage the natural wetland. Though the lake is no longer as beautiful as it used to be, the re-construction of Da Po Pond into a sightseeing spot has the additional purpose of reviving the wetland. It is hope that this rare fault lake can be well preserved for future generations to come. Chihshang, during spring and summer, reveals network-like radiating beautiful patchwork with Hsin Wu Lu Creek as its primary riverbed, either viewed from the middle of the Central Ridge or coastal mountain-line, and there are prosperous and affluent sight of lush vegetation either sides. Though it is foggy and grey during winter time, there are as many visitors to Chihshang as there are in summer. The golden splendor of the cauliflower has become another attraction for Chihshang. The magnificent blanket of golden cauliflower fields at harvest can be seen from either side of the No. 9 provincial highway has drawn large number of visitors annually. Tourists to Chihshang often include the following spots in their itinerary: silk worm vacation center, Tu Garden, Jade and Toad Gardens. Furthermore, with the well-publicized bicycle ride, one can casually wander along the country roads, or promenade in the greenery field or flower sea, viewing the high ridge and tough cliff on the two sides. No. 9 provincial highway is the major south-north throughway which links up Fuli and Yuli in the north, and Kwanshan and Luja vertical valley and other scenic spots in the south. To the west heading on No. 20 Taiwanese highway or No. 20 (A) provincial highway, it will link to the southern vertical highway. To the south, it connects to the No. 197 county highway to Taitung, which meanders along the coastline at mid-mountain level. The ride offers the views of southern tip of the vertical valley and Pei Nan Big Creek. Since the traffic is light, the route is suitable for cyclists who wants to take in views of the tough landscape of Kwanshan and Lichi.
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Kwanshan, Taitung (4) – Kwanshan field sights circling the township Far-stretching horizon of views as if like a painting
Written and photographed/ Hsieh Chung Li Few would have guessed thatKwanshan, a remote township in Taitung County, was the first in Taiwan to have a “periphery bicycle lane system”. The bicycle lanes network is about 12 kilometers long with most of the road developed and constructed along previous field tracks. Except for agricultural vehicles, no motorized vehicle is allowed on the bicycle lanes. The specialized lane is 3 to 4 meter wide, paved with cement, and divided into two-way lane with red bricks. There is porcelain patch work every 100 meter for beautifying and mile-taking purposes. On the two sides of the lane there is either creek or water cultivation ditch, with wooden barricade to safeguard bicycle riders. Since the bicycle lane network encircles the whole town, cyclists can always return to the starting point. We recommend that cyclists start from the vicinity of Qinshui Park, after they going around, they can then finish the tour in Qinshui Park. The periphery bicycle lanes are decorated with red bricks along the creek. The rows of betel nut trees add a touch of the tropics. The tunnel opens up to a panoramic view of rice fields with the majestic central range clearly in sight. The red farming machine, green rice crops and soaring white egrets come together to compose a beautiful picture. Cyclists are treated to a bird’s eye view of Kwanshan township when they ascend the mountain roads adjacent to the Kwanshan ditch. A marvelous rural sight of quiet and affluent countryside featuring a fertile plain dotted with various farm houses, sizzling water of Hsin Wu Lu Creek, and endless stretch of coastline and mountains. Further along the route, one can visit “Yuan Don” made up of mahogany wood. The cemetery is a tidy garden with inviting path. The absence of industrial plants in the Kwanshan town means that the air stays fresh all day. In addition to the passage of running water from Hsin Wu Lu Creek, Red Stone Creek, and Kwanshan Ditch, these drainages not only irrigate the fields and fruit gardens; along with all the tracks and motorways, they make the fields look like a checker board from afar. Like the silent and peaceful Provence in the picture by Van Gogh, there are also the tall mountain, clouds drifting by, industrious farmers working in the fields and birds flying by. If one gets tired from too much cycling, there is pavilion for one to take a break and enjoy a good picnic. Right next to the Electric Light Bridge are the Ecology Park and the Qinshui Park. Both parks are built on newly reclaimed land. InQinShui Park, people can fish, row boats and play water games. There is also a large aborigine meeting hall to conduct annual harvest ritual and other large-scale performing show. In the Ecology Park, there is an artificial lake designed as a habitat for animals and plants. These are several castle-shaped towers for bird-watching. For now, one can easily spot white egret, duck, and migratory birds flocking by. From the “star gazing tower”, visitors can relish the star-spangled night and enjoy a commanding view of the mountains and coastline of Kwanshan and Luye highlands. Kwanshan residents are already making full of the bicycle lane network during their morning and evening sports sessions. Visitors who come to visit Hualien-Taitung Vertical Valley have also come to learn about it. In half a day, one can have viewed the beautiful countryside. Aside from riding bicycle, one can also relax in the simplicity of this township and relish its famous smelly tofu.
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